Your client will tell you what she wants during the consultation. The color in the mid-length and ends is the reference.
Based on the existing color, five changes are possible:
The client should be asked which of those five possibilities is the preference. Using your color chart pick 4-5 shades, fan them and display at the hairline and in the face area of the client so she can see.
If the color in the mid-length and ends are more than 2 levels lighter than the target shade, a pre-pigmentation filler can provide the optimum base for the next steps.
If the color in the mid-length and ends is darker the hair must be lightened.
In cases where the hair was previously colored, SilkLift or Oxycur Platin can be used to “clean the canvas”, readying hair for the next steps.
If hair is virgin, any color product can be used.
Whenever previously lightened hair needs to be colored darker or given a brighter fashion direction it is important to consider what happens during the lightening process. In essence, the natural pigments of Eumelanin and Pheomelanin are largely reduced, or no longer exist.
In some cases it might be necessary to add an extra portion of dye prior to coloring in order to replace the missing pigments and ultimately provide a richer color result.
Porous or very porous hair tends to absorb chemical products more quickly and more intensely than healthy, non-porous areas. This is called grabbing and can lead to a darker or an uneven result. That’s why it’s important to choose products and formulations that can balance porous areas and counteract differences to ensure evenness from re-growth to ends.
While a color for the re-growth often requires a higher alkalinity and/or peroxide concentration, the mid-length and ends may only need color balancing without lift or gray coverage. Gentle but equally durable results can be achieved with GOLDWELL Colorance or Elumen.
Another way to prevent grabbing is to create balance and prepare hair for even color uptake by using Structure Equalizer Spray. This spray also supports the Color Equalizer System in Topchic hair color.
Innovative Coenzyme-Technology protects hair during coloration by neutralizing free radicals to make hair structure sustainable without compromising the coloring process.
In short, less damage means improved hair structure resulting in extraordinary brilliance and color intensity.
Structural differences can lead to uneven color uptake. More dyes can penetrate quicker in porous areas.
Color Equalizer with its special Polymers equalize structural differences on the surface of hair, preparing it for color uptake. The cationic or positively charged polymers are absorbed by the porous anionic, or negatively charged, areas of the hair.
This effect prevents hair from becoming too dark due to color overload and causes a more even distribution and penetration of the color. The result is more uniform color and improved coverage. It also smoothes the surface of hair and improves its combability.
Read more about hair porosity here.
Chemical and mechanical processes can lead to a loss in lipids, a natural part of hair, making hair feel weak, lifeless, porous and dull. IntraLipid™ Technology is a special lipid patented by KAO and for the first time used in hair color. It effectively replaces lost lipids inside the hair for notably healthier conditions.
Bio-mimetic structure, as close to natural as possible, ensures optimum adaptation, delivering effective results during the coloring process.
For details about Lipids please read here.
Learn more about Color Theory here.